Huayhuash part 2

I should mention at this point that the Huayhuash is not a national park and instead of purchasing a park entrance ticket, we had to pay small amounts per person at each camp site, about 150 soles each over the 10 days. Epi had put forward the suggestion that on the last night of the trek we had a Pancha manca. A traditional method of cooking meat in the ground using hot stones. He had said we could buy a sheep from one of the villages to cook and this would be about 120 soles (30 pounds). In order to save money he was getting Alaine or Kim (who both speak good Spanish) to pretend to be assistant guides or the cook at each of the check points so they didnt have to pay the fees. He´d calculated that by day 9 we would have accumulated enough savings to pay for the sheep.

´Day 6. We crossed the Punta Cuyoc pass at 5000m. Everyone felling better except for Alaine and Annalie who had been sick through the night. Vomit the dog had followed us from the last camp to clear up after people.  After lunch we had the option to do another 5000m pass, the San Antonio¨.  Dark storm clouds had gathered and it was really windy. Only four of the group chose that option. The rest of us continued down the valley to camp. On the way we saw some Huayhuash, squirrel X rabbit like creatures hopping around in and out the rocks. The scenery was still amazing but not a patch on days 3 and 4. I guess its easy to get de sensitized by so many dazzling views that one starts to loose appreciation.

Day 7. It was freezing and very windy in the morning. We had a hard 3 hour down hill slog to a small pueblo called Huayllapa. Some of the group went into the village to see if they get get any provisions. We were starting to fantasize about fresh fruit and avocados and were in need of fresh stocks of loo roll.  The rest of us began the long walk to camp. Annalise was still really ill and was not eating and hardly drinking. I was starting to get quite concerned about her as it had been 3 days. She opted to ride the horse the rest of the way to camp.  For the rest of us we began a long uphill 5 hour struggle to the camp. I think we all agreed this was the toughest and most mentally challenging day. It seemed to go on forever, the trail was hard to walk on and with each turn our hope of seeing the little orange tents that represented home were dashed. It went on so long that we all just had to laugh and keep trudging on, in the hail and snow. The camp was at 4628m and very, very cold. Annalie had been in her tent since she´d arrived a few hours before us. Thanks to my little wilderness medicine book and some extra antibiotics that Will had given me at the end of Ausangate trek I gave her a large dose of Ciprofloxin for bacterial diarrhea and hoped for the best. I really felt that as she was eating and drinking so little that if this didnt sort her out we were going to have to insist on her behalf that she was somehow sent back to Huaraz where she could get proper medical attention.

 Day8 I woke up to find my water bottle had frozen solid inside my tent. It had been the coldest night yet. Once I got up I noticed that there was a sheep teathered to the outside of the kitchen tent. This was obviously the sheep we´d paid for.  I hadnt expected a live one. By the time the others had gathered for breakfast it had already been christened ¨tasty¨. I spent the rest of the morning trying not to look it in the eye and berating my self for being such a cowardly, hypocritical meat eater, only capable of purchasing my cellophane wrapped, santized meat from the super market, totally disconnected from the reality of its origins.
Here was a sheep that was probably the most ethical and organic animal possible, that was going to be slaughtered in the most humane and stress free way in its natural environment (ie, not in a slaughter house) and I was having a hard time dealing with it and breifly questioning whether I should infact be a vegetarian! I put that thought to one side fairly quickly, but I knew I wasnt going to make friends with the sheep and I certainly didnt want to see it killed.

After breakfast we set off for the first of 2 passes both 4800m.  We were over taken by the donkeys and the horse to which Tasty has been lain across the saddle. Annalie, who was feeling significantly better opted to ride the horse so tasty was allowed down to walk the rest of the way. Lunch was by a stream in the hot sunshine. We all promplty fell asleep and woke to fine a massive and very ominous looking weather front had come in which swiftly brought hail and heavy rain. We arrived at camp pretty soaked, luckily the sun came out again just after we arrived to dry us off.



Tasty riding the horse

Tasty was slaughtered not long after we arrived at camp. I saw one of the horse men leading him over to the kitchen tent. I took my book and headed to the lake to read and look at the view. I was aware that most of the others had gathered aroung to watch the slaughter. I really didnt want to and felt that it was my choice. Ít was all over when I got back.

Day 9. We were staying at this campsite for 2 nights and it was really nice to wake up and not to have to pack up. We went on a short half day hike up to a mirador view point at 4500m. It was pretty steep and the weather wasnt great, obscuring the view.  We were back in camp by noon to see the start of the panchamanca. This involves makling a hollow igloo of rocks underwhich a fire is lit and allowed to burn for several hour in order to heat the rocks up.  The igloo is then dismanteled and the meat which has been marinating in various herbs and garlic and wrapped in brown paper is then layered up with the hot rocks and potatoes. The whole thing is covered with wet straw, then plastic, then earth and finally left for about 50 mins to cook. The result is really flavoursome, steam bbq¨d meat and potatoes.

Day 10. We had a very early start followed by a long hot downhill round the mountain to the town of Llamac. As were neared the town we could hear a band playing, almost as if celebrating our return from the mountains.  We had had a great trip, and made some good friends with  an interesting and diverse group of people. We were all looking forward to getting back to Huaraz and a shower, good meal and warm bed!