Ausangate

Apu (Quechua for mountain god) Ausangate at 6372m is the highest mountain in southern Peru. It had just received a fresh dump of snow the week before we arrived and that meant the snow line was much lower than usual.  Our trek was to hike a circuit around the summit that would take us over 4 high passes, 2 over 5000m.
We met up with our guide Miguel in Cusco and drove to a dusty little town called Tinqui about 3 hours away. We were also accompanied by Domingo our cook and Alberto his assistant. After a night in a rather basic hostel were also joined the next morning by Aberliño the arriero (horseman) and his young helper Olger,who was aged 15 to 20 depending on who was asking.

Our team of guide, horsemen and cook in Tinqui

We started our trek bright and early after a delicious breakfast cooked by Domingo at the hostel. The previous night we had had pan fried trout for dinner. It seems rather odd to me to be eating trout in Peru, but there are lagoons full and they are farmed by the locals.

Day 1 was not the most impressive, but a necessary hike along dusty tracks. The number of dwellings dwindling the further we went. The local bush telegraph was in excellent working order and the track was dotted with children hoping for some sort of gift or sweet from us. We had all brought items such as pens, notepads, clothes etc for the children but were determined not to give it all away on day one and so close to the road head!

We were mildly suprised to find a red tableclothed table laid up for our lunch, and then to be duely served a 2 course meal. Will 4 adventure for softies? We finally started to get some better views of the mountains and our first camp for the night was at Upis 3800m. There was a natural hot spring pool, a bit sulphuric, but a hot and welcome plunge for the few of us who dared at the end of the day.

Once the sun disappered behind the mountain however the temperature started dropping rapidly and we were all thanking out lucky stars there was a mess tent to hang out in. The first night was a real test on the warmth of the sleeping bag, which I found to not be sufficient even though it has a comfort rating of -12! Desperately hoping I wouldnt need the loo in the night I went to sleep a bit cold and found my self waking up to a frozen tent,  and a semi frozen, chocolate munching tent mate (kerry)and also a cup of tea  served to me at about 6.30am. Luckily the temperature rises as quickly as it drops once the sun is up and by 8am we were all seated around the breakfast table in the sunshine eating our breakfast.

Day 2 saw the first of our high passes, Arapa at 4750m. The trek its self was stunning. The landscape had changed dramatically to  we were spoiled with fantastic views of snow capped mountains, glaciers, deep blue lagoon and deep orchre coloured hills. There was plenty of wildlife in place of people. Chinchillas, Picunias, Llamas and Andean ducks and geese.

During the day, Miguel told us stories about local customs and traditions and taught also more about the way of life of the mountain people. One of the most interesting was about 2 villages, seperated by a river. He was explaining about a type of grass we could see growing around us. The villagers use the grass to make a bridge between the two settlements that is replaced every year. The bridge is replaced on the same weekend annualy and all the villagers take part. On the first day the grass is cut and soaked. On the second day it is plaited and then twisted into ropes about 20cm thick and as long as the river is wide. Then on the 3rd day and night the men (no women are allowed as its bad luck) build the bridge, whilst the women prepare a feast. When the bridge is complete the leaders of the 2 villages walk to the center of the bridge to exchange gifts and to make sacrifices to the Gods, that the bridge will be strong and safe for the coming year and finally there is a big celebration.
Our camp that night was next to a lagoon where we were going to fish for trout. Sadly someone lost the rod in the lagoon! Luckily Domingo had not counted on us bring home the fish for tea!

Our camp at Laguna Jatan Pucacocha 4624m